Did you know that it’s possible to connect two or more Launchpad Batteries together, like beads on a string, to boost their power within a circuit?

Novel in design, our 3V CR2032 Launchpad Battery is a safer, more learner-friendly option than traditional coin batteries! Besides making our Launchpad Battery harder to swallow, these wing-like metal tabs enable easier gripping, sketching, prototyping, and connecting!

Similar to stacking two traditional coin cell batteries (one on top of the other), the metal wings of Launchpad Batteries may be overlapped to merge their individual voltages. In most cases, doing so will result in the increased brightness of LEDs and extended battery life.

So, while they may look different, Launchpad Batteries can be easily joined to increase their total voltage!

Combining batteries to boost the voltage in your circuit is a useful thing to do if your batteries no longer contain a complete charge, or if you’re working with power-hungry circuits that use a combination of colored LEDs and Animating LEDs.

Overlapping two fresh batteries, for example, would double the total voltage available in your circuit from 3 to 6 volts.

The key is to join the batteries so they are connected one after the other like beads on a string. When the positive wing of one battery comes in contact with the negative wing of another battery, this is called connecting the batteries in series.

Connecting two Launchpad Batteries in series, by linking the positive wing (or terminal) of one battery to the negative wing of the next, is especially useful for powering circuits that contain a variety of multi-colored LEDs.

To ensure a more robust physical and electrical connection, it’s a good idea to secure the overlapped wings with Conductive Fabric Tape or Conductive Fabric Tape Patches.

But, if you’d prefer to treat the batteries as a switching mechanism, you may choose to leave the overlapping contacts loose.

Once you have the batteries connected in series, you can treat them like one large battery with the negative tab on one battery and the positive tab on the other battery. This will allow you to connect more LEDs in parallel, like the example circuits below.

View Video Demonstration

Tips for Working with Alligator Clips & Through-Hole LEDs

Launchpad Batteries, in singles or connected in series, have sturdy arms that are easily securable with conductive tapes or alligator clips! This makes it easier to prototype and experiment with different power configurations.

This can also help to make scientific concepts easier to visualize and understand. In the example below, the circuit powered by two Launchpad Batteries connected in series is much brighter. This is especially true for the blue and white LEDs that have higher power requirements.

Another concept that might be illustrated with two Launchpad Batteries in series is the way that Through-Hole LEDs behave both with and without resistors (or Resistor Stickers).

If you are working with Through-Hole LEDs in parallel and Launchpad Batteries in series, it’s important to use resistors such as our Resister Stickers, to protect the bulbs and balance out the flow of current going to each LED.

Whereas a white Through-Hole LED does not always need a resistor when connected to a single Launchpad Battery, doubling the voltage can result in exceptionally bright white lights that may cause the batteries to drain faster.

It is also possible to demonstrate the concept of how switches work with a pair of Launchpad Batteries and alligator clips. By leaving the overlapped wings loose, free from conductive tape (see images below), they may be easily separated to open the circuit and turn it off. Then, to close the circuit, to turn it back on, they may be brought back into contact with one another.

Learn More:

To learn more about Launchpad Batteries, visit Introducing the NEW Chibitronics Launchpad Battery!

To learn more about Through-Hole LEDs or Resistor Stickers, visit How to Use Chibitronics Resistor Stickers.

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The post Power Boost: How to Place Launchpad Batteries in Series appeared first on Chibitronics.

Speedbumps for Electricity

Did you know that different colors of LEDs require different amounts of power to turn on? This is especially true for bare through-hole LEDs (the ones with legs).

In this post, you’ll learn how to use Chibitronics NEW Resistor Stickers to act as speedbumps to slow down the flow of electricity in your paper circuits.

Unlike Circuit Sticker LEDs and Launchpad LEDs, which come with built-in resistors, our NEW Chibitronics Through-Hole LEDs do not have built-in mechanisms to help slow down the flow of electrons. 

As a result, warm and cool colors don’t always play nicely together within the same circuit, with the warmer colors hogging up the energy for themselves. 

For example, if you try to pair a red through-hole LED with a blue or white one, the blue or white one will not always turn on. This is because a red LED requires less power than a blue or white one.

In the sequence of visible colors on a light spectrum—which follows the familiar convention of the rainbow, ROYGBIV—voltage requirements for LEDs start low and increase as they advance through the spectrum. While these values may differ a bit (depending upon the manufacturer) this chart shows the typical voltage of Chibitronics Through-Hole LEDs, the amount of power that’s typically required for each color to light up. 

As a general rule, red and yellow LEDs (warm colors) require less power than green, blue, and white ones (cool colors). 

To prevent frustration when using bare through-hole LEDs, or when working with students, it’s a good idea to separate the warm colors from the cool colors when building paper circuits. This is especially helpful if you don’t have access to resistors.

Using resistor stickers to balance and mix colors

If you’d prefer to build a mixed-color circuit where all of your through-hole LEDs turn on, you can try adding some resistance to the circuit loop to help balance out the power requirements for each of the colors.

Resistance is kind of like a tap on a faucet, like friction for electricity. Basically, it helps slow down the flow of current (the flow of electricity) to help protect your circuit and prevent your battery from draining too fast. If you think of the voltage in your battery as the pushing force that pushes power through your circuit, and current as the actual flow of energy that creates the light, resistance slows things down, like a speed bump in your circuit.

Our NEW Resistor Stickers, which look like little black rectangles, work in much the same way as traditional resistors.  

Basically, they help slow the flow of current—the flow of electricity—to help protect your circuit. By slowing down the current, Resistor Stickers help keep your through-hole LEDs from burning out and your battery from draining too quickly. By helping to balance the varying voltages of LEDs in your circuits, using them will allow you to light up all of the through-hole LEDs in your circuits, regardless of their color (as long as your battery has sufficient charge to do so)!

Resistors Slow & Balance the Flow of Current

Made of a flexible base material imbued with carbon (which is conductive) our NEW easy-to-use Resistor Stickers are conveniently backed with conductive adhesive.  Nearly magical in function, they work the same way as a typical resistor!

By sandwiching a Resistor Sticker between the leg of a through-hole LED and one of the conductive traces of your circuit, you’re adding resistance to the loop that the electrons are flowing through. As a result, you’re slowing down the current going through that LED and making it more difficult for the electrons to pass through it.  This helps to prevent the LED from hogging power away from other LEDs.

Since a resistor is like a switch, it does not have a direction or a polarity like an LED or a battery does. This means that you can put a Resistor Sticker under either leg of a through-hole LEDs (positive or negative); it doesn’t matter as long as you only place it under one leg.  Then, if securing the leg of your LED to it with Conductive Fabric Tape, be sure that the tape does not come in contact with the conductive trace leading to the battery.

As you repeat this process for each of the low energy colors in your circuit, you’ll notice that the overall current will start to balance out, siphoning away enough power to allow the green, blue, and white LEDs to turn on! 

Unlike through-hole and surface mounted resistors which vary in value, Resistor Stickers have a consistent value of approximately 500 ohms across the sheet. While they may not provide a perfect balance for the current in your paper circuits, we like to think of them as training wheels for resistors. Our accessible, easy to use Resistor Stickers will enable all of the colors in your paper circuits to get along, play nice, and share. If only everything in life was so easy! 

The post How to Use Chibitronics Resistor Stickers  appeared first on Chibitronics.

Chibitronics now carries NEW learner-friendly Through-Hole LEDs and easy-to-use Resistor Stickers! After hearing stories about educators using through-hole LEDs with their students to cut costs and encourage rapid prototyping, we’re excited to introduce two new products that will make this practice easier and even more educational!

The Long and Short of It

Through-hole LEDs (the ones with metal legs designed to be used in a breadboard) are often viewed as an affordable option for classrooms exploring paper circuits. However, we’ve heard that some of you have been spending precious prep time using Sharpie markers to color-code the positive or negative legs, to make them less frustrating for your students. We’ve also heard how challenging they can be during debugging, since it’s difficult to confirm their polarity once they’ve been bent open and taped down.

Our new Through-Hole LEDs make identifying the short, negative leg unmistakable—even when the LED has already been added to a circuit! That’s because we’ve shortened it significantly, making it easier to contrast with the long, positive leg! Making the legs easy to identify at a glance may help reduce frustration for new learners by making circuits easier to debug. This can save time and result in fewer broken legs.

For convenience and easy storage, our new 5mm through-hole LEDs come packaged in a plastic box containing six compartments. Each compartment contains forty LEDs in one of six colors: red, yellow, green, blue, white, and rainbow fade, color-changing LEDs.

When using bare Through-Hole LEDs without resistors, it’s a good idea to separate the warm colors from the cool colors during circuit construction. As a general rule, red and yellow LEDs (warm colors) require less power than green, blue, and white ones (cool colors). 

But, if you or your students prefer to mix warm and cool colors, we’ve got you covered!

Like Training Wheels for Resistors

We’ve heard how frustrating it can be when you (or your students) are trying to mix certain colors of through-hole LEDs together in the same circuit (red and white, for example) and are unable to get them all working at the same time.

Our NEW Resistor Stickers were designed to help balance the flow of current in your circuits, to help you light up all of the colors at once!

Unlike Circuit Sticker LEDs and Launchpad LEDs, which come with built-in resistors that enable different colors to be mixed together, bare through-hole LEDs do not. This means that LEDs with lower power requirements (red and yellow) will not play well with LEDs with higher power requirements (blue and white), unless you manually add them.

Adding Resistor Stickers allows you to help balance the flow of current in your circuits. Less fiddly than through-hole resistors, which are designed to be inserted into breadboards, Resistor Stickers are flat, sticky, and easy to use—like training wheels for resistors! 

Learn How to use Resistor Stickers:

To learn more detailed information about Through-Hole LEDs or Resistor Stickers (or to watch a video demonstration), visit: How to Use Chibitronics Resistor Stickers.

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The post Introducing NEW Chibitronics Through-Hole LEDs and Resistor Stickers appeared first on Chibitronics.

Have you ever rubbed your eyes while they’re closed and “seen” bursts of colors? These phenomena are known as phosphenes. Phosphenes can be induced by mechanical, electrical, or magnetic stimulation of the retina or visual cortex, much like our circuits can be enhanced with mechanical stimulation (Conductive Pressure Sensitive Sheets) or magnetic stimulation (magnets and reed switches).

For this tutorial, you will create your own handheld viewer that simulates bursts of color when a magnet actuates the reed switch in the circuit. 

Materials:

• Conductive Fabric Tape
• Reed Switch (Magnet On)
• Rainbow Fade Animating LED Stickers
• 3V Coin Battery
• Magnet
• Holographic Foil Cardstock
• Double-sided tape
• Craft Cutter (or printer/scissors/craft blade)

Step 1: Cut Design on Cardstock

The first step is to cut out the design on holographic cardstock.

There are three suggested ways to cut out the main parts for this project: Silhouette Cameo, Cricut, or by hand with a craft blade or scissors.

Use the provided .dxf for the cut lines on Silhouette Cameo; use the .svg for Cricut or a laser cutter; or print the PDF on the back of the foil cardstock and cut with craft blade or scissors

[NOTE: My Silhouette Cameo 4 could not cut to the ends of the cardstock, so I had to use scissors to complete the lines.]

Step 2: Fold Cardstock

The next step is to prep and fold the cardstock.

View the PDF to see the fold lines. Ensure that the holographic foil is inside and the brown is outside.

Step 3: Assemble Circuit

After you’ve prepped the fold lines, it’s time to create the circuit.

Use Conductive Fabric Tape, a 3V coin battery, Rainbow Fade Animating LED Stickers, and a Reed Switch (Magnet On) to create the circuit on the inside of the viewer.

[Note: The negative lead should go underneath the battery while the positive lead goes over it.]

Step 4: Finishing Touches

Once you’ve tested the circuit to ensure that it works, it’s time for a couple of finishing touches.

Use double-sided tape to fold up and create the 3D form of the viewer.

I recommend assembling the bottom half first, and then the top half as a lid. 

Then place your magnet near your reed switch to activate the circuit and view your animating rainbow phosphene simulator through the peep holes.

Step 5: Enjoy the Show!

Enjoy the simulation!

[NOTE: This time-lapse GIF is sped up; actual animating LEDs are slower.]

The post Animating Rainbow Phosphene Simulator (by Emily Brooks) appeared first on Chibitronics.

Mother’s Day is just around the corner (Sunday, May 11), which means that it’s time to starting thinking about how you might help brighten your Mom’s day.

If you are looking for a way to tell your mom how much you love and appreciate her, this card project might be just the thing to help you get started!.

In this tutorial, I’ll show you a quick and easy way to create a light-up Mother’s Day Card that glows with gratitude! You can print it out in color, or add your own creative touch by coloring your own!

Tools & Supplies

Note: A Craft with Light Kit (Color) contains all of the electronics supplies needed for this project.

• Mother’s Day Card & Circuit Template (printed on white cardstock)
  The top half has two card fronts to choose from: a colored version and one you can color yourself. The bottom half, with the circuit diagram, folds in half)
• Two Chibitronics LED Stickers (I used pink and orange)
• Conductive Fabric Tape
• 3V Battery
• Scissors
• Foam Tape
• (Optional) Art supplies to personalize the uncolored card front
• (Optional) Hole punch
• (Optional) Glue Stick
• (Optional) Vellum or tissue paper to diffuse the light

Directions

1. Download and print the Mother’s Day Card & Circuit Template onto white cardstock.
2. Use scissors to cut off the bottom half (which will fold in half to create the card base).
3. Separate the card fronts and choose the one you prefer (colored or DIY). If opting for the DIY card front, use art supplies of your choice to add color.
4. Stick conductive tape over the blue line on the Circuit Template to create the negative trace.
5. Create a tape ball to adhere the battery over the round footprint (negative side down).
6. Stick conductive tape over the pink lines to create the positive traces and be sure to leave a gap for the switch.
7. Apply LED Stickers.
8. Test the circuit with a scrap of Conductive Fabric Tape, by temporarily pressing it over the switch gap.
9. Flip the card front over and add a couple pieces of Conductive Fabric Tape to the back left corner (behind the leafy branch labeled “push”) to close the gap in the circuit when the card front is applied.
10. Add foam tape around the edge of the card to hold the card front in place.
11. (Optional) Punch holes for the LEDs to shine through.
12. (Optional) Glue vellum or tissue paper behind the holes.
13. Adhere the card front on top of the circuit.

The post Make a Mother’s Day Card (with Chibitronics LED Stickers) appeared first on Chibitronics.

Did you know that a light sensor can add interactivity to your artwork by making it react to the presence or absence of light? Did you know that the Chibitronics Light Sensor Sticker can be used with or without a microcontroller?  

While both the Chibitronics Light Sensor Bundle and Light Sensor Materials Kit are typically used in conjunction with our Creative Coding resources (including the Chibi Chip), the Light Sensor Sticker is actually quite versatile! 

In this post, I’ll show you how to use a Light Sensor Sticker in a battery-powered paper circuit project (no microcontroller), to add a bit of light-reactive magic to your art!

Light Sensor Basics

The Light Sensor Sticker has three metal pads — SIGNAL (S↑), GND (-), and POSITIVE (+3V).

The sensor, itself, is denoted with the symbol of the sun. This part of the sticker detects light.

As the sensor detects different levels of light, varying amounts of power are delivered to the circuit through the SIGNAL (S↑) pad. Then, depending upon the orientation of the LEDs within the circuit, they will either glow or turn off when the sensor detects brightness or darkness. In ambient settings, the LEDs may not appear to do anything.

Learn How to Use a Chibitronics Light Sensor Without a Microcontroller

To create your own, download and print out this sheet of Circuit Diagrams.

In the example below, two LEDs have been connected to a Light Sensor Sticker to showcase how they each respond to different light conditions.  You do not have to include LEDs for both conditions, however, and the sensor will still work.

In the example below, two LEDs have been connected to a Light Sensor Sticker, and a switch has been added to allow you to disconnect the circuit from power. Like the previous example, you do not have to include LEDs for both conditions, and you can also modify how many LEDs you actually use for each.

Tips, Tricks, and Trade-Offs: While it’s okay to leave your circuit connected to the battery when you wish to observe changes to your artwork’s appearance at different times of day, disconnecting power while your artwork is unattended will conserve battery life. Also, while the Light Sensor Sticker may be directly adhered to the template, we suggest that you leave the protective backing on and use Conductive Fabric Tape Patches (or scraps of Conductive Fabric Tape) to connect it to the circuit.  That way, you can easily remove and reuse it.

Quick Reference Guide

How Might You Use a Light Sensor in a Project?

Light Reactive Painting

I created a light reactive painting of a heron to demonstrate a way to use the Light Sensor Sticker in a project.

Useful Tools & Supplies

• LED Circuit Stickers of your choice (I used 2 White Blink Animating LEDs and 2 White Fade Animating LEDs)
• Conductive Fabric Tape or Copper Tape
• Conductive Fabric Tape Patches (optional, but useful)
• 3V Coin Cell Battery
• Velcro dots
• Canvas frame or a sturdy piece of cardboard to mount your artwork
• Watercolor paper and paints
• Paintbrush
• Scissors
• Screw Punch
• Pencil
• Printer (if you plan to print out a circuit template to use as a reference)

Directions

1. To make my project, I first sketched and painted a heron scene.

2. Next, I decided to use two LEDs in the sky to represent fireflies in the dark and two more in the water to make ripples shimmer in the sun. After figuring out their placement, I used a screw punch to make holes in the painting and a pencil to trace the holes onto my canvas.

Note: I added the hole for the Light Sensor after I completed the circuit.

3. After sketching the locations for my LED Stickers, I used this Template as a guide to plan out my circuit, starting with the NEGATIVE trace and the two LEDs that would turn on when it’s BRIGHT. I positioned my Light Sensor at the bottom of the frame, leaving the protective backing on.

The NEGATIVE trace connects to the NEGATIVE end of the LEDs and extends from the front of the frame around to the back side, connecting to the negative side of the battery. This trace should be continuous and not have any gaps. 

The GROUND pad of the light sensor will be placed on top of the NEGATIVE trace in a later step.

The POSITIVE ends of the LEDs connect with the SIGNAL (S↑) pad of the light sensor.

4. Next, I completed the circuit for the two LEDs that I wanted to turn on when it’s DARK.  The POSITIVE trace of the circuit, which connects to the POSITIVE (+3V) pad of the Light Sensor, connects to the POSITIVE end of the stickers and wraps around to the back of the frame.  

On the back of the frame, I left a gap in the POSITIVE trace to form a SWITCH, with one section of the POSITIVE trace connecting with the POSITIVE end of the LED Stickers and the other section connecting with the positive side of the battery.

To close the gap in the switch, I used a flap of paper that I could tape closed; but, you could also just apply a patch of Conductive Fabric Tape over it.

Lastly, I extended the SIGNAL trace from the first part of the circuit, connecting it to the narrow, NEGATIVE end of the stickers.  

5. I reinforced all my LEDs with Conductive Fabric Tape, attached the Light Sensor Sticker using Conductive Fabric Tape Patches, and then closed the switch to test the circuit.

6. Once I confirmed that it was working properly, I adhered my artwork to the canvas with Velcro dots.

Other Project Ideas to Consider

• Create a piece of artwork that lights up one object when it’s light and another when it gets dark
• Create a sign for your room that lights up when it gets dark
• Create a 3D model, such as a Christmas tree or a lighthouse, that blinks on and off when a flashlight is shined upon it, using White Blink Animating LEDs)

Or, for an extra challenge, why not try adapting one of the following DIY Projects by adding a Light Sensor Sticker?

• This Nightlight Has a Secret
• How to Make Glowing Paper Circuit Lanterns with Chibitronics LED Stickers
• Make a Solar-Powered Model House with Chibitronics Circuit LED Stickers

Learn How to Use a Light Sensor With a Microcontroller

Our Light Sensor Sticker is most commonly used in a classroom setting, to help students learn the difference between traditional on/off switches and programmable sensors that can read and respond to a range of analog data points.

To learn more about how to use our Light Sensor with a microcontroller, visit Light Sensor | Chibitronics.

The post Interactive Art with a Chibitronics Light Sensor Sticker appeared first on Chibitronics.

In this video tutorial, I’ll show you a way to create a Halloween-themed, octagon-shaped, illuminated tunnel book that turns on and off with help from a tilt sensor. You will find the complete supply list, downloadable cut files, and printable circuit diagrams below.

A traditional tilt-sensor is a small cylinder wrapped around two metal legs. When integrated into a circuit, the sensor serves as a useful and inexpensive on and off switch.

When the sensor is upright, a metal ball hidden inside bridges the tops of the sensor’s legs to close the switch and complete the circuit. This allows lights to turn on.

When the sensor is tilted, the ball loses connection with the legs. This interrupts, or opens, the circuit. This turns the lights off.

Tools & Supplies

• Chibitronics LED Stickers in colors of your choice (I’ve used a Mega Pack and Rainbow Fade Animating LEDs)
• Chibitronics Conductive Fabric Tape
• Chibitronics Copper Tape
• 2 CR2016 (3V) Coin Cell Batteries (Using two will result in brighter, longer-lasting light effects)
• 2 Strong Magnets (if creating a magnetic battery holder)
• Tilt Sensor (aka Metal Tilt Ball Switch) such as this one
• Velcro Dots
• Double-Sided Tape
• Adhesive of your choice for adhering small parts
• Scissors
• Bone Folder
• Pencil
• Cardstock & translucent vellum
• Scotch or Packaging Tape (for reinforcement. (See video for details.)
• Cricut Maker (if you plan to use my cut file)

Templates & Circuit Diagrams

I used a heavy white cardstock (Bristol) to create the pages and hinges of my tunnel book. I used black cardstock for the top layer and some of the small embellishments, to add visual interest.

I printed the following circuit diagrams at 100% scale. After cutting them out with scissors, I adhered them onto the front and back sides of a firm piece of hexagon-shaped cardstock to create the circuit layer. This made it easy to adhere the circuit traces, LED Stickers, battery holder, and tilt switch right on top (See video).

Learn More

To see another example of a tilt-sensitive tunnel book with a whole different look, visit: Tunnel Book with Tilt Sensor.

The post Spooky, Tilt-Sensing Tunnel Book with Chibitronics LEDs appeared first on Chibitronics.

For everyone that knows that Halloween is a season, not a day, this light-up pop-up jack-o-lantern card video tutorial is for you!

Watch the video to see how to make your own paper pumpkin pop-up!

Materials:

• Chibitronics White Fade Animating LED Stickers
• Chibitronics Conductive Fabric Tape
• Chibitronics Conductive Fabric Patches
• CR 2032 coin cell battery
• Craft blade
• PVA glue (or double-sided tape)
• 8.5 x 11 Orange and Brown Cardstock
• 12 x 12 Black Cardstock
• Silhouette or Cricut cutter OR Printer
• Paper
• Scissors

Step 1: Prep Your Jack-O-Lantern Piece

Choose one of the four options below to create your Jack-O-Lantern.

Option 1:

Print Color PDF and cut around edges with scissors.

Color (PDF)

Option 2:

Print B&W PDF, decorate with preferred drawing utensils (crayons, markers, colored pencils) and cut around edges with scissors.

B&W (PDF)

Option 3:

Cut orange cardstock with Silhouette Cameo using .dxf.

Cameo Cut File (DXF)

Option 4:

Cut orange cardstock with Cricut using .svg.

Cricut Cut File (SVG)

Once you have your outline, fold along the edges so that the center stripe has 6 squares, and each “arm” has 4 trapezoids. You may want to view the B&W PDF to see the fold lines. 

The next step of the assembly is to fold the entire shape in half and align the back to the front. Then glue or double-sided tape the tabs to the back of the shape.

Step 2: Make Card Base

To make the card base, fold 12” x 12” black cardstock in half from top to bottom so you have a 12” x 6” rectangle, and then with the fold on the top, fold in half again from left to right so you have a 6” x 6” square. 

(You can also fold two 8.5” x 11” sheets of paper and attach them later if you do not have 12”  x 12” cardstock)

Then reopen your card and use a ruler to locate the center of the center fold (3”) and use your craft knife to make a 3/4” slit in the middle of the card fold (⅜” on each side).

Step 3: Make Pumpkin Stem

To make the stem that you will use to stabilize your pumpkin and add your circuit to, cut two strips of 3/4” x 11” of brown cardstock and fold them both in half so you have ¾” x 5.5” that will stick out from the center.

Step 4: Create Circuit

I opted to have the White Fade Animating LED Stickers on the front face of the back stem and the circuit lines on the back face of the front stem so that the battery and switch would be in the front.

This is a bit complicated as the circuit is on three different pieces of cardstock, so please refer to the video.

Gently poke holes in the front stem so that the light can shine through.

Once the circuit is complete, glue the front and the back of the stem together and push through the slit in the card.

Step 5: Attach Pumpkin

Use a craft blade to cut a 0.75” slit in the center of the top and bottom of the pumpkin.

Carefully slide the pumpkin onto the stem.

Glue only the bottom two flaps so that they are at the crease when the card is folded.

Step 6: Light it Up!

Press and hold your switch and watch your jack-o’-lantern flicker! It’s more fun in the dark!

The post How to Make a Flickering Jack-O-Lantern with Chibitronics White Fade LED Stickers (by Emily Brooks) appeared first on Chibitronics.

Introduction:

In this video tutorial for #PopUpTober, I’ll show you two different methods for building a light-up pop-up mechanism called a Slot and Joint.  A Slot and Joint mechanism is useful for creating pop-ups that appear to jut out from a parallelogram adhered to a base card. This type of pop-up works well for adding a paper circuit, because it’s possible to expand the surface area of your jutting arms to add more LEDs!

While this tutorial will focus on creating one jutting arm that lights up, it’s possible to add multiple glowing arms with a bit more planning.

Directions:

To view a full demonstration, please watch the video.

In the video, I’ll show you the process that I use for gluing the mechanism together and adding a circuit to a moving arm. The shape and theme of this mechanism are easily customizable, so I hope that you’ll think of these models as a launching point for your own designs.

In order to conceal the circuit, this design has a slot cut in the Base Card for the conductive tape traces to slip through, allowing them to connect with a battery holder on the Backing Card.

Templates, Circuit Diagrams, & Props

The dimensions that I’m using worked for my project, but the shape, angles, and measurements you use might end up being different.

To help place focus upon the underlying circuit, and to make it easier to follow along with the video, I’m providing templates, circuit diagrams, and coral reef inspired artwork that I made in Adobe Illustrator. These support materials may be downloaded below.

I’ve created templates for two different models, one with a rectangular parallelogram and another shaped like a coral reef. Other than the shape differences, they are identical in functionality.

Base Card: Circuit Diagram (Two Layers)

This model does a good job of hiding the circuit, but it requires two layers of paper and a craft knife. The knife is used to cut out slots in both the base layer and the parallelogram that it’s slotted through. Then, to conceal the circuit, the Conductive Fabric Tape must be threaded through the slots and connected with a battery on another sheet of paper, a backing card the same size as the template (5.5″ W X 8″ H). 

Templates & Props

Slot & Joint Mechanism
Rectangular Footprint (PDF)

Slot & Joint Mechanism
Coral Reef Footprint (PDF)

Slot & Joint Parallelogram Pieces
Coral & Rectangular
(PDF)

Slot & Joint Fish & Coral Props
(PDF)

Circuit Diagrams

Slot & Joint Circuit Diagram
Rectangular Footprint
(PDF)

Slot & Joint Circuit Diagram
Coral Reef Footprint (PDF)

Updated 10/24/2025: We’ve added Circuit Diagrams that depict our new Launchpad Battery!

Useful Tools & Supplies:

1. 1 or more Circuit Sticker LEDs (I used one White Fade LED for my fish)
2. Conductive Fabric Tape
3. 3V Coin cell or Launchpad Battery
4. 8 1/2 X 11 Cardstock in colors of your choice (110 pound is ideal, but 65 pound will work)
5. Vellum scrap (to diffuse the light)
6. Scissors
7. Cork-backed steel ruler and a scoring tool (a bone folder or toothpick both work)
8. Pencil with an eraser
9. Pen-knife
10. Japanese Screw Punch or a hole punching tool of your choice
11. Double-sided tape
12. Glue or an adhesive of your choice
13. Printer (for printing the templates, circuit diagrams, and props).
14. Art Supplies of your choice
15. (Optional) Chibitronics Battery Holder
16. (Optional) Chibi Stencil or Craft Stencil

Learn More

You can learn more about this building technique by watching Pop-Up Tutorial 11 – Slots (on the Pop-Up Channel), or reading page 116 of Duncan Birmingham’s book, Pop-Up Design and Paper Mechanics: How to Make Folding Paper Sculpture.

The post PopUpTober: Light-up, Slot & Joint Mechanism (featuring Chibitronics) appeared first on Chibitronics.

Introduction:

In this video tutorial for #PopUpTober, I’ll show you two different methods for building a light-up pop-up structure called a Floating Plane.  A Floating Plane is useful for creating large pop-up shapes that appear to float upon a flat plane that rests upon three parallel supports.

A Floating Plane may be folded parallel to the crease of a Base Card, or diagonally!

Directions:

To view a full demonstration, please watch the video.

In the video, I’ll show you the process that I use for gluing the mechanism together and adding a circuit behind a piece of artwork. My hope is that it will help you get started with your own designs.  The shape of a floating plane may be easily customizable, as can the shape of your circuit.

In order to conceal the circuit, one of the two designs has a slot cut in the Base Card for the conductive tape traces to slip through, allowing them to connect with a battery holder on the Backing Card.

Templates, Circuit Diagrams, & Props

To make it easier to follow along with the video, it’s helpful to print out the template of your choice onto cardstock.

To help place focus upon the underlying circuit, I’m providing templates, circuit diagrams, and ice cream artwork that I made by carving a rubber stamp. These support materials may be downloaded below.

Base Card/ Circuit Diagram (All One Layer)

The first model, which is the easiest, builds the circuit right on top of the Base Card. The advantage of this version is that the structure is built upon a single piece of paper. The disadvantage is that the circuit will be visible until you cover it up.

Floating Plane Template/ Circuit Diagram NO Slot (PDF)

Base Card: Circuit Diagram (Two Layers)

The second model does a better job of hiding the circuit, but it requires extra steps. In this version the circuit is threaded through a slot cut from the Base Card and connected with a battery on another sheet of paper, a Backing Card. 

Floating Plane Template With Slot
(PDF)

Floating Plane Circuit Diagram With Slot (PDF)

Props

Floating Plane Ice Cream With Hands
(PDF)

Useful Tools & Supplies:

1. 1 or more Circuit Sticker LEDs (I used three Rainbow Fade Animating LEDs for my ice cream cones)
2. Conductive Fabric Tape
3. Coin cell battery 
4. Cardstock in colors of your choice (110 pound is ideal, but 65 pound will work)
5. Vellum scrap (to diffuse the light)
6. Scissors
7. Cork-backed steel ruler and a scoring tool (a bone folder or toothpick both work)
8. Pencil with an eraser
9. Pen-knife
10. Japanese Screw Punch or a hole punching tool of your choice
11. Double-sided tape
12. Glue or an adhesive of your choice
13. Printer (for printing the templates, circuit diagrams, and embellishments).
14. Art Supplies of your choice
15. (Optional) Chibitronics or WeRMakers Battery Holder
16. (Optional) Chibi Stencil or Craft Stencil

Learn More

To learn more about the Floating Plane mechanism, check out pages 60-63 of Duncan Birmingham’s book, Pop-Up Design and Paper Mechanics: How to Make Folding Paper Sculpture. You may also check out Tutorial 12: Floating Planes and Tutorial 54: Diagonal Floating Planes over on YouTube on Duncan Birmingham’s Pop-UpChannel.

The post PopUpTober: Light-Up Floating Plane Pop-Up Mechanism Featuring Chibitronics appeared first on Chibitronics.

Introduction:

To celebrate #PopUpTober and #LightUpPopUpTober, I’m sharing a fun way to combine light with an engaging pop-up mechanism, to create a “smore-themed” pop-up spread! This type of mechanism has a lot of visual interest, with arms that move and rotate whenever a card is opened.

The Double Pivot mechanism, found on page 136 of Paul Jackson’s book, The Pop-Up Book: Step-by-Step Instructions for Creating Over 100 Original Paper Projects, is one example that uses this technique. Since it is an easily customizable mechanism that lends itself well to adding a paper circuit, I’ve adapted it here.

In order to conceal the circuit, my design has a slot cut in the base card for the conductive tape traces to slip through, allowing them to connect with a battery holder on the backing card. If you don’t have a battery holder, a folded piece of cardstock will also work.

The shapes of the arms and the mask supporting the LED may be easily changed to suit your own ideas.

The dimensions that I’m sharing worked for my project, but the measurements (and subject matter) are easily adaptable!

To make it easier to focus on the underlying circuit, I’m providing templates, circuit diagrams, and a campfire scene with roasting marshmallows. These support materials may be downloaded below.

Directions:

To view a full demonstration, please watch the video.

Useful Tools & Supplies:

1. 1 or more Circuit Sticker LEDs 
2. Conductive Fabric Tape
3. Coin cell battery 
4. Cardstock in colors of your choice (110 pound is ideal, but 65 pound will work)
5. Vellum scrap (to diffuse the light)
6. Scissors
7. Cork-backed steel ruler
8. Pencil with an eraser
9. Pen-knife
10. Japanese Screw Punch or a hole punching tool of your choice
11. Double-sided tape
12. Glue or an adhesive of your choice
13. Printer (for printing the templates, circuit diagrams, and embellishments).
14. Art Supplies of your choice
15. (Optional) Chibitronics or WeRMakers Battery Holder
16. (Optional) Chibi Stencil or Craft Stencil

Templates, Circuit Diagrams, & Masks/Props

Sample Templates

Double Pivot Template
(PDF)

Double Pivot Template Version 2
(PDF)

Sample Circuit Diagrams

Double Pivot Circuit Diagram 1 LED (PDF)

Double Pivot Circuit Diagram 3 LEDs (PDF)

Masking Pieces & Props

Double Pivot Large Mask & Props
(PDF)

Double Pivot Small Mask & Props
(PDF)

The post PopUpTober: Light-Up Double-Pivot Pop-Up Mechanism (featuring Chibitronics) appeared first on Chibitronics.

Engage your students with a fun and educational project that combines science, technology, art, and engineering!

This blog post will show you a way to combine paper circuits with a series of pop-up foundation shapes. Individually, each mechanism may be customized to stand alone. When connected with a simple hinge, they may be combined to create a light-up pop-up book!

Although easy to make, each structure is versatile, customizable, and equipped with features that make it useful for telling a story or illustrating a concept.  For the purpose of demonstration, the models in this project are based upon facts learned about the White-Spotted Pufferfish, a tiny fish recently discovered to be the architect of large, elaborately detailed, symmetrical nests!

…probably the greatest artist of the animal kingdom.

– Sir David Attenborough

Describing the White-Spotted Pufferfish in video episode five of the BBC One Series, Courtship: Life Story

Pop-Ups with Personality!

Each of these basic pop-up mechanisms may be applied in a variety of ways, in different content areas, lending themselves to different types of scenes.

• Parallel Fold: Showcases a pufferfish from two different angles!
• Simple V-Fold : Creates a 3D scene of two pufferfish side by side.
• Acute V-Fold: Reveals a deep-sea diver encountering the pufferfish.
• Double Acute V-Fold: Designs a scene with the pufferfish gathering shells for its nest.
• Pop Up Book: Combines the four scenes into a light-up, pop-up book.

Ready to Dive In?

To help you get started, I’ve provided downloadable templates for each foundation shape and video demos to help make this project accessible.

Useful Tools and Supplies are listed here. A list of suggested steps may be found here.

An idea for combining the pop-up pages into a pop-up book are here.

Suggested Steps:

Tip: If working with students, it’s a good idea to have them first build a dummy model to help them plan out their circuits and designs. Each of the templates with circuit diagrams feature circuits that have been started (but not completed) to make them easier to customize. In some cases, it may be helpful to mark the locations for the LED stickers (and lay down some of the conductive traces) before fully assembling the pop-up.

1.  Print out the templates. These may be used to build upon directly or as a guide. 

2.  Score the dashed lines and cut out the outlined pieces.  Crease the scored lines well.

3.  Adhere the battery holder template (or substitute your own, if you prefer).

4.  Glue the pop-up parts together using the following process.

When gluing V-folds, put glue on one tab and adhere its matching footprint on the template.  Next, fold the pop-up piece into its closed position. Then, add glue to the second tab.  Carefully close the page.  Even if the pop-up doesn’t perfectly line up with the guides on the template, the piece should find its natural position. This method also applies when gluing a shape with more than one layer.

When gluing Parallel folds, put glue on one tab and adhere it to the template.  Ensure that the tab is parallel with the card’s central crease. Next, fold the pop-up piece into its closed position. Then, add glue to the second tab. Carefully close the page. Even if the pop-up doesn’t perfectly line up with the guides on the template, the piece should find its natural position.

5.  Determine the locations for the LEDs and lay down the conductive traces, ensuring that the positive lead on the pop-up connects with the positive lead of the battery holder.  Do the same for the negative lead.  Apply LED stickers with the broad end touching the positive lead and the pointy, narrow end touching the negative lead.

6.  Decorate the pop-up.  If desired, disguise the circuit with paper or collage materials.

Templates & Videos

Parallel Fold

Parallel Fold Video

The Parallel Fold is considered to be one of the easiest pop-ups to make. It is characterized by a pop with two parallel tabs placed equidistant from a base card’s center crease. Since this structure has two equal sides, it is useful for showing two views of the same object.

Parallel Fold Template
(PDF)

Parallel Fold Template with Circuit Diagram (PDF)

Simple V-Fold

Simple V-Fold Video

The Simple V-Fold points backward when the card is closed, and it is usually placed in the center of a spread.  This structure may be used on its own or with extra shapes connected to it, such as a box, which can add extra dimension. 

Simple V-Fold With Box Template
(PDF)

Simple V-Fold With Box Template with Circuit Diagram (PDF)

Acute V-Fold

Acute V-Fold Video

The Acute V-Fold points forward when the card is closed, and it is usually placed near the top of a spread.  Since this structure leans backward when the spread is open, it provides a lot of space for creating a scene.

Acute Angle V-Fold Template
(PDF)

Acute Angle V-Fold Template with Circuit Diagram (PDF)

Double Acute V-Fold

Double Acute V-Fold Video

The Double Acute V-Fold (with two arched layers) has the same features as the Acute V-fold, but with more potential for detail. Cutting shapes out from (or gluing shapes on top of) the additional layer can help add more complexity.

Useful Tools & Supplies:

1. One or more Circuit Sticker LEDs per pop-up
2. Conductive Fabric Tape 

Tech Tip:  If using copper tape to build the circuits, it’s advisable to add patches of Conductive Fabric Tape over the hinged areas, which may crack over time.

3. 3V coin cell battery 
4. Cardstock in colors of your choice (110 pound is ideal, but 65 pound will work)
5. Scissors
6. A ruler and a scoring tool (a toothpick is useful in a classroom setting)
7. Pencil with an eraser
8. Hole punch
9. Glue or an adhesive of your choice (Wet glues are not the best choice for most pop-ups because the moisture can cause buckling of the paper.)
10. Printer
11. Art supplies of your choice
12. (Optional) Chibitronics Craft Stencil

Bonus!

Connect the pop-ups to create a pop-up book!

Light-Up, Pop-Up Book Model Video

While each foundation shape can stand alone, they may also be connected with simple hinges and turned into a book. Hinges should be the same height as the pop-up spreads. To add them, simply fold strips of cardstock in half, position them as mountain folds, and glue them between each spread. Try to keep the pages on the book’s fore-edge aligned.

Additional flaps of paper may be added to create room for text.

A simple wrap-around cover may be added to keep the pop-up spreads together when they are stored.

How Else Might This Idea Be Applied?

We’d love to hear your ideas!

The post Make 4 Simple Pop-Ups Glow With Chibitronics LEDs appeared first on Chibitronics.